Buying A Featherweight
04-11-2013, 08:55 AM
#11
Super Member
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Texas
Posts: 1,198
I am by no means and expert in FWs, but I have 6 (4 black, 1 white, 1 tan) and know what to look for.
When he says the plug is loose, does that mean it at the wall or into the machine? Either way, you won't be able to test the machine. However, there are several websites where you can order a replacement cord/plug set. I would suggest that he replace the cord so that you can try it before you buy it. I believe that they run about $20.
If the place on the base of the machine where the cord plugs in is cracked or broken, don't buy it, unless you want to pay to have it replaced. That is an electrical hazard. And though you could do it yourself, it is a repair that I would have someone who works on FWs do. It may also be why the plug is loose.
Make sure there's a bobbin case. They are going for about $40 - $45 if you have to purchase one separately.
The decals on the machine and tray have been mostly worn off, which doesn't affect the operation of the machine, but does affect the value -- the more original decalling there is, the higher the value of the machine.
So, if you figure in the cost of a replacement cord and a possible a replacement bobbin case, you are out at least $60 there, which he should deduct from the cost of the machine.
I haven't paid more than $225 (including S/H) for any of my black machines, which include a 1939, 1950, 1951 Centennial, and 1952 (my birthday machine). If he tries to tell you they are antiques, or special, or hard to find, tell him Singer made thousands of them. We don't buy them because they're scarce, we buy them because they sew sooooooo well.
When he says the plug is loose, does that mean it at the wall or into the machine? Either way, you won't be able to test the machine. However, there are several websites where you can order a replacement cord/plug set. I would suggest that he replace the cord so that you can try it before you buy it. I believe that they run about $20.
If the place on the base of the machine where the cord plugs in is cracked or broken, don't buy it, unless you want to pay to have it replaced. That is an electrical hazard. And though you could do it yourself, it is a repair that I would have someone who works on FWs do. It may also be why the plug is loose.
Make sure there's a bobbin case. They are going for about $40 - $45 if you have to purchase one separately.
The decals on the machine and tray have been mostly worn off, which doesn't affect the operation of the machine, but does affect the value -- the more original decalling there is, the higher the value of the machine.
So, if you figure in the cost of a replacement cord and a possible a replacement bobbin case, you are out at least $60 there, which he should deduct from the cost of the machine.
I haven't paid more than $225 (including S/H) for any of my black machines, which include a 1939, 1950, 1951 Centennial, and 1952 (my birthday machine). If he tries to tell you they are antiques, or special, or hard to find, tell him Singer made thousands of them. We don't buy them because they're scarce, we buy them because they sew sooooooo well.
04-11-2013, 11:05 AM
#14
Power Poster
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Western Wisconsin
Posts: 12,930
Test its ability to make a stitch by using the handwheel. If it cannot make a stitch, it has a timing problem and I would ask for the price to be reduced (although $150 is a good price already based on your photos, as the case and accessories are included). Bring your own thread, fabric and scissors with you.
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