Machine Binding
07-02-2012, 02:19 PM
#81
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Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Sully, Iowa
Posts: 2,390
I have machine bound my quilts ever since I became the Project Linus coordinater for North Wales as the quilts get so much more wear, tear and laundering than a normal quilt, it can be easy once you have got the hang of it, but you must use the correct measurements.
My binding, for normal wadding, is 2 3/8"binding, folding in half longwise and stitched on with a 3/8" hem, when folded over the edges, back and front match EXACTLY. On my Elna 720 I have a blanket stitch but on the example below I used a stepped zig-zag as most of my pupil's machines have that stitch. The secret is to pin the binding in place 6" - 10" at time placing the pins in sideways so you can take them out easily as you sew. Don't be frightened of a machine sewed binding it is so much more durable for hard wearing quilts and if you use a variable thread it is stunning.
Hope this answers your query.
My binding, for normal wadding, is 2 3/8"binding, folding in half longwise and stitched on with a 3/8" hem, when folded over the edges, back and front match EXACTLY. On my Elna 720 I have a blanket stitch but on the example below I used a stepped zig-zag as most of my pupil's machines have that stitch. The secret is to pin the binding in place 6" - 10" at time placing the pins in sideways so you can take them out easily as you sew. Don't be frightened of a machine sewed binding it is so much more durable for hard wearing quilts and if you use a variable thread it is stunning.
Hope this answers your query.
07-02-2012, 02:55 PM
#82
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Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Fort Dodge, Iowa
Posts: 681
I have machine bound my quilts ever since I became the Project Linus coordinater for North Wales as the quilts get so much more wear, tear and laundering than a normal quilt, it can be easy once you have got the hang of it, but you must use the correct measurements.
My binding, for normal wadding, is 2 3/8"binding, folding in half longwise and stitched on with a 3/8" hem, when folded over the edges, back and front match EXACTLY. On my Elna 720 I have a blanket stitch but on the example below I used a stepped zig-zag as most of my pupil's machines have that stitch. The secret is to pin the binding in place 6" - 10" at time placing the pins in sideways so you can take them out easily as you sew. Don't be frightened of a machine sewed binding it is so much more durable for hard wearing quilts and if you use a variable thread it is stunning.
Hope this answers your query.
My binding, for normal wadding, is 2 3/8"binding, folding in half longwise and stitched on with a 3/8" hem, when folded over the edges, back and front match EXACTLY. On my Elna 720 I have a blanket stitch but on the example below I used a stepped zig-zag as most of my pupil's machines have that stitch. The secret is to pin the binding in place 6" - 10" at time placing the pins in sideways so you can take them out easily as you sew. Don't be frightened of a machine sewed binding it is so much more durable for hard wearing quilts and if you use a variable thread it is stunning.
Hope this answers your query.
Love your method. This is my favorite way of doing my binding. I might add that the measurements you use are very important, it makes a very nice mitered corner. Thanks for sharing with a photo. Love this thread.
07-02-2012, 03:35 PM
#83
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Join Date: Mar 2009
Posts: 15,639
Sorry I don't have a picture but the few times I did it I sewed the front down with a decorative stitch (something wavy) and it blended nicely. It was not noticeable that it didn't follow the line of the back seam exactly. I think I sewed mine on so the front of the binding was a little wider than the back binding.
07-05-2012, 05:42 AM
#84
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Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Keller, TX
Posts: 7,417
Front and Back of Machine Binding
Here's the front and back of my machine binding. I use invisible thread and am quite pleased with the results. I set the stitching length on 1.8 and zig zag about the same. I have mirror image function on my machine which I also use. My bindings are cut 2 1/4" then folded in half. I sew to the back of the quilt with a 1/4" seam then use the blind hem stitch on the front! Hope this helps.
07-05-2012, 06:23 AM
#85
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Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Sully, Iowa
Posts: 2,390
Here's the front and back of my machine binding. I use invisible thread and am quite pleased with the results. I set the stitching length on 1.8 and zig zag about the same. I have mirror image function on my machine which I also use. My bindings are cut 2 1/4" then folded in half. I sew to the back of the quilt with a 1/4" seam then use the blind hem stitch on the front! Hope this helps.
07-05-2012, 10:23 AM
#86
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Iowa
Posts: 816
Hmmm... I have the picture of the backs of tons of quilt, but none show a close up of the binding.
I know two ways to bind a quilt by machine. One is to use double fold bias tape and squeeze it really close to the edge and sew front and back at the same time. I have a friend who calls this fool proof, and her binding looks perfect, and her corners have great mitres front and back. I must be bigger than a fool, as mine always looks sloppy.
The way I do it is by sewing bias tape that has been folded in half to the back of the quilt, and then pulling it around to the front. My front mitres look great, but the back doesn't always. This leaves a shadow line of stitching on the quilt usually on the outside of the binding on the back. I can keep it equidistant from the binding on 95% of the quilt, but once or twice it will either get further away, or go into the binding.
My quilts aren't for show though, and it looks great on the front. I don't enjoy hand sewing at all, so I think this is a good way to do it.
I know two ways to bind a quilt by machine. One is to use double fold bias tape and squeeze it really close to the edge and sew front and back at the same time. I have a friend who calls this fool proof, and her binding looks perfect, and her corners have great mitres front and back. I must be bigger than a fool, as mine always looks sloppy.
The way I do it is by sewing bias tape that has been folded in half to the back of the quilt, and then pulling it around to the front. My front mitres look great, but the back doesn't always. This leaves a shadow line of stitching on the quilt usually on the outside of the binding on the back. I can keep it equidistant from the binding on 95% of the quilt, but once or twice it will either get further away, or go into the binding.
My quilts aren't for show though, and it looks great on the front. I don't enjoy hand sewing at all, so I think this is a good way to do it.
Last edited by Skittl1321; 07-05-2012 at 10:26 AM.
07-05-2012, 05:39 PM
#88
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Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Front row
Posts: 14,646
Here is a video how to attache the binding by machine. You can see the back and front. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5jw0E...ature=youtu.be
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