judy363905

WOW. Thank you for this Kitsie. Who would have thought it is so easy will do Patrick's methods next binding.


Judy in Phx, AZ

Daylesewblessed

The only problem I ever have is getting that last join in the binding, so that the binding is the right length to fit exactly on the quilt. I usually get it right, but it is an awkward seam to sew with the weight of the quilt at hand, and then sometimes I have stretched too much or not enough on the quilt edge when measuring to decide exactly where the binding joining seam should go. In that case, the fit is not perfect, and I have to rip the joining seam and try again.

It amazes me how many "not so good" bindings I see on quilts. I think that for some new quilters, they have not seen what the standard in binding looks like, so they don't know what they don't know. Also, by the time comes to put the binding on to finish a project, some people have lost patience or interest and try to hurry through it.

To me, the binding is what makes a quilt look professional. An average quilt made with average skill can be upgraded in appearance tremendously with a skillfully applied binding. On the other hand, a wonderful quilt loses some respect when it has a sloppy binding or one without nicely mitered corners.

GailG

So that's what they're called -- "bird beak corners"!! Occasionally I will have one of those.

Holice

....or rabbit ears

These are usually caused when the seam allowance waivers - less or more than the correct width - as it nears the end of the side. There is a tendency to lose control of the machine about 1/2" or so before getting to the end. If you rip out the binding if you see this happen, usually you see that it is the seam allowance.
Also, when you fold the binding down to make the mitre and sew on the next side....these folds must be exact on their proper angle in order to have a good mitre. Sharon Shamble, in her video, emphasizes that the fold at this point, which is in the verticle position or along the side of the next side - that the top fold should be very slightly in from the edge. I would call this the fuzz or threads of the layered quilt. Often the diagonal fold below the top may not be exactly lined up with the top fold. Another indication that a problem may occur is when you fold the binding to the back at the end of the row.......the fold that extends beyond the next side of the quilt, should be straight and exact and not at an angle.

Nilla

Kitsie, that was a really helpful video. I already stitched off the end at a 45 degree angle, but clipping that little piece makes sense to get rid of the bulkiness I sometimes struggle with. Thanks!

carolaug

I iron mine and also glue the binding prior to sewing. That really helps in keeping the binding even on both sides. ironing is key, both front and back prior to binding.

ohstr

Marcia Baker -Alicia's Attic video on You Tube is the only method that I use. It is so simple and the results are perfect every time. Take a look at that method ...it is a winner!!!!!

weezie

Kitsie, I love that Patrick Lose video. I'll be using that method in future. Corners have been my binding problem. Thank you.

Hinterland

I have trouble with bias binding. I used the tube method of making it and cutting it was an utter disaster. It looked like a rumpled mess when I applied it. I ended up taking it off and putting on a binding made from the cross grain, and it looked fabulous.

doowopddbop

This is an excellent question, Holice! I've studied and tried out several different techniques, and have combined several of my favorites to come up with what works for me. I have found that I prefer 2" strips for my binding, because I like a tight, narrow, filled binding that is close to even widths on the front and the back. I am talking about a french fold cross-grain binding - that is, with binding strips cut from selvage to selvage instead of on the bias. I only use bias binding if I have curves, or on the rare occasion to achieve a certain look from say a stripe or design in the print.

I always join my strips with a 45-degree angle, lower my stitch length to about 1.8, then trim the seam allowance to 1/8" -3/16" and press it open to distribute the bulk. Then I fold the binding in half and apply to the top of the trimmed, squared quilt using my 1/4" foot with a guide to keep the seam allowance consistent. I slide a rubber glove on my left hand which immediately helps to alleviate the pressure and tension in my hand, arm and shoulder as it grips the quilt and keeps it in place. Then I leave a 6" tail and start stitching, going about 5". I plant the needle and TEST to see if my seam allowance is correct, meaning that if I fold it over, will the fold just barely cover the stitching line on the back side. If not, I'll adjust my needle one or to clicks to the right or left and restitch if necessary.

Getting the miters just right at the corners is easiest if you stop one stitch before a seam-allowance-width away from the corner. I back stitch a couple of stitches, then pull the quilt out of the machine to make my mitered fold. I agree with Holice, that angling off is not always accurate. It's easier to illustrate this, as well as mastering that final mystic mitered seam - so here's my binding lesson: http://www.rileyblakedesigns.com/med...Lesson_pdf.pdf
here's a link to a photo tutorial: http://www.rileyblakedesigns.com/cut...ding-tutorial/
and here's a video using the same technique on miters and that final seam for machine binding: http://youtu.be/i9riC03FNRQ
Once the binding is stitched on, then I lightly press the binding away from the quilt to get a crisp fold, then I fold the corners over to form identical miters on the back side and pin to secure before I get to it to hand stitch the binding to the back with matching thread.

If a binding is neat, filled and secure, it can really elevate a quilt's beauty, and have better wear.