Pinkiris

When I do bindings, my corners are not always square on the inside, closest to the quilt top. I've wondered if I should be marking 1/4" at each corner so that I stop exactly there before turning, sewing off the edge, and then folding and starting on the next side.

Holice

Pinkiris: Some quiltrs find that sewing off at an angle into the corner helps in making a good mitre. The normal procedure is to sew the binding (approaching the corner) to the 1/4" point from the end. However, this is not always true if your seam allowance is any width other than 1/4". I believe the assumption is that all binding seams are 1/4". My bindings are 3/8" and I have even made them wider if I want a different look. So lets say - sew the binding to the point that represents the width of your seam. I usually stop one or two stitches before I get to this point and backstitch a couple stitches. Not sewing to the exact point of your seam allowance will leave a bit os space to accommodate the folds in the binding. If you angle to the point you will need to sew to the exact spot the width of your seam allowance, otherwise the corner will not be a 45 degree angle.

One of the comments above asked if she should reduce the width of the binding to have a good fold. I have found that the info that is missing in most tutorials or instructions is that the width of the cut binding has a direct relationship to the width of your seam allowance. Usualy a 3/8" seam allowance requires a 2.5" wide cut binding.
The 1/4" seam allowance will require either a 2" or 2.25" cut binding.
It is good to test after a few inches of sewing to make sure the seam allowance is good and the binding will fold to the back with the batting and quilt filling the binding. If the fill is not good then the seam allowsnce must be adjusted or the binding recut.

MadQuilter

I took a class at the LQS for double-mitered binding and it helped me greatly. One of the issues I still have is the inconsistent width from the front to the back. I want about the same amount of fabric on each side. I sew mine down by hand for the most part so I am not trying to sew through all layers in a ditch.

BellaBoo

I usually use two color binding, one color on the front and one on the back. I learned this in a class by Anita Murphy. I don't see many quilts with two color binding now. I have more trouble with the ending joins. It looks different every time.

sewmary

Holice: You have addressed and answered my problem without even knowing it! I have trouble getting a good fill on my bindings and your remarks about the seam allowance rang bells in my head. Of course that is my issue.

By the way, Sharon's You Tube video was the best for me in working with bindings. I now can miter beautifully, even if I don't always use the glue.

ube quilting

Love her tute on bindings.
peace

bearisgray

What I had trouble with at one time:

How wide to cut the binding - I prefer a wider binding than the usual 1/4 inch. It's easier for me to use the furthest left needle setting of my machine for my 'guide width' - I think mine is almost 1/2 inch wide.(2-7/8 of bias cut binding usually works for me)

As you've mentioned, many directions seem to assume that everyone wants a 1/4 inch binding - so the instructions would be better - iMO - if they said to stop the finished width of the binding away from the corner. (That's worded awkwardly - did you get what I meant?)

What/why straight cut or bias cut binding - pros and cons of each

How to join the ends - when making the binding - and when finishing it off.

When it's better to do the second stitching by machine.

What kind of hand stitching to use for the second stitching. And how to do it.

How to hand sew that corner fold down so it looks decent.

How to keep the edge turned down - glue? pins? clips?

Understanding how to fold that corner to get the miter. I had to get the book out so many times!

Should one press the binding in half - or baste the edges together - (I baste the edges together instead of pressing in half - to allow for the shifting of the fabric as it turns)

Squaring the quilt - tidying up the edges before applying the binding - do you overcast the edge before applying the binding? Do you leave the edges raw?

Convincing me to do a test run/sample to get the needle position right.

nanac

My problem with binings is that it NEVER seems flat, or even. Despite reading books and articles, and watching tutorials on YouTube, nothing I do seems to look rigt. I measure athe the top, middle and bottom od all four side, and try to get the most accurate number, but no luck. I have tried straight grain and bias binding, and every quilt I have ever tried ti bind myself, has lumps, bumps, and puckers. Forget mitering, my corners are all rounded, not a neat, sharp, crisp corner. I finally gave up, and started paying my LA'er to put the binding on. This seems to be my biggest problem - no problems at all with piecing, borders, or even backing, but my bindings are hopeless.

nanac

Ooops! Somebody else's fingers got in my way

CarolynMT

How about for those of us who dont want to hand bind. I put my binding on completely by machine. So I use no glue, I sew the binding on the back with a generous 1/4in seam then take it to the ironing board and press the binding "out" on the back. I then flip and use my edge joining foot for a guide and stitch on the top. I adjust stitch length to make it seem consistent with the quilting. It also allows me to add piping and flanges easily to give my binding a little punch without too much effort.

There are not many tutorials on how to completely machine bind. I would only hand bind for a show quilt Otherwise everything gets machined.

Also, not sure if this helps, but when I try to teach people to put the two ends together for mitered join on the binding. I always keep these two little things in mind: "Bottoms UP" and "Top DOWN", I even repeat that to myself when I am joining. in the midst of my running commentary in my head!