Really honest opinion?
06-25-2009, 10:14 AM
#114
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posts: 618
Originally Posted by pittsburgpam
I went with the first vase. I have 4 more flowers and a couple of leaves to do. It's pretty big, 24" square, but that just makes it easier to work with. I'm not very experienced in applique.
06-25-2009, 10:43 AM
#116
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Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: California
Posts: 3,502
I'll post some closeups when I can, my camera battery was low so I had to charge it.
I'm using a method that Klue told me about. Though she said to use non-woven, sewn in interfacing, I used muslin because that's what I had.
I cut a piece of muslin about 6" x 12" and then drew the template shapes for all the leaves on it, leaving at least a half inch between them for the seam allowances. I then put it right sides together with the blue fabric and sewed on the drawn lines (no seam allowance) with water soluble thread. Cut them out with a 1/4" or less seam allowance, cut a slit in the muslin and turned them right side out. Pressed them VERY well with a dry iron. When I'm ready to applique a piece I press it again with steam, some pieces I had to use a shot of spray from the iron. The thread disappears, peal off the muslin, and left with a perfectly turned under and pressed seam. This is an absolutely terrific way to do it. Perfect edges, no needle turning, no hand basting.
I did take pictures while I was doing the shapes but I think they are still in the camera.
For the vines I used two different sizes of pressing bars. I love those too as there are no loose edges to deal with and keep turned under nicely while hand sewing.
I'm using a method that Klue told me about. Though she said to use non-woven, sewn in interfacing, I used muslin because that's what I had.
I cut a piece of muslin about 6" x 12" and then drew the template shapes for all the leaves on it, leaving at least a half inch between them for the seam allowances. I then put it right sides together with the blue fabric and sewed on the drawn lines (no seam allowance) with water soluble thread. Cut them out with a 1/4" or less seam allowance, cut a slit in the muslin and turned them right side out. Pressed them VERY well with a dry iron. When I'm ready to applique a piece I press it again with steam, some pieces I had to use a shot of spray from the iron. The thread disappears, peal off the muslin, and left with a perfectly turned under and pressed seam. This is an absolutely terrific way to do it. Perfect edges, no needle turning, no hand basting.
I did take pictures while I was doing the shapes but I think they are still in the camera.
For the vines I used two different sizes of pressing bars. I love those too as there are no loose edges to deal with and keep turned under nicely while hand sewing.
06-25-2009, 12:01 PM
#117
Super Member
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Pennsylvania
Posts: 1,635
Originally Posted by pittsburgpam
I'll post some closeups when I can, my camera battery was low so I had to charge it.
I'm using a method that Klue told me about. Though she said to use non-woven, sewn in interfacing, I used muslin because that's what I had.
I cut a piece of muslin about 6" x 12" and then drew the template shapes for all the leaves on it, leaving at least a half inch between them for the seam allowances. I then put it right sides together with the blue fabric and sewed on the drawn lines (no seam allowance) with water soluble thread. Cut them out with a 1/4" or less seam allowance, cut a slit in the muslin and turned them right side out. Pressed them VERY well with a dry iron. When I'm ready to applique a piece I press it again with steam, some pieces I had to use a shot of spray from the iron. The thread disappears, peal off the muslin, and left with a perfectly turned under and pressed seam. This is an absolutely terrific way to do it. Perfect edges, no needle turning, no hand basting.
I did take pictures while I was doing the shapes but I think they are still in the camera.
For the vines I used two different sizes of pressing bars. I love those too as there are no loose edges to deal with and keep turned under nicely while hand sewing.
I'm using a method that Klue told me about. Though she said to use non-woven, sewn in interfacing, I used muslin because that's what I had.
I cut a piece of muslin about 6" x 12" and then drew the template shapes for all the leaves on it, leaving at least a half inch between them for the seam allowances. I then put it right sides together with the blue fabric and sewed on the drawn lines (no seam allowance) with water soluble thread. Cut them out with a 1/4" or less seam allowance, cut a slit in the muslin and turned them right side out. Pressed them VERY well with a dry iron. When I'm ready to applique a piece I press it again with steam, some pieces I had to use a shot of spray from the iron. The thread disappears, peal off the muslin, and left with a perfectly turned under and pressed seam. This is an absolutely terrific way to do it. Perfect edges, no needle turning, no hand basting.
I did take pictures while I was doing the shapes but I think they are still in the camera.
For the vines I used two different sizes of pressing bars. I love those too as there are no loose edges to deal with and keep turned under nicely while hand sewing.
I've used fusible interfacing for machine applique and trimmed it away to about a 1/4 inch, but there was always a bit of interfacing showing after turning. What a great idea to use water soluble thread. Can't wait to try this!!! :D
06-25-2009, 05:11 PM
#119
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: California
Posts: 3,502
The pictures don't come out in the order you put them so... I trace the shape onto the muslin, right sides together with the applique fabric, then sew the outlined shape. Cut them out, slit the back, turn it right side out, and iron. When I used the steam/spray I then turn off the steam to make sure it's totally dry and I used one of the pressing bars to hold it down as I seperated it. Then just pin it on and sew it.
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